STOCKS
Stocks
are the most basic preparation found in any professional kitchen. In French
referred to as “Fond de
Cuisine”-“Foundations of Cooking” In classical cuisine, the ability to prepare good
stocks is the most basic of all skills, because so much of the work in the
kitchen depends upon them. A good stock is the base for soups, sauces, gravies
and stews. In the modern kitchen however, stock has lost some of its relevance
and importance. Stock requires labor and moreover, the trend towards lean food
without sauces means that today, stocks are not that necessary. Also the advent
of the convenience stock cube, paste or powder has made the traditional stock
making a bit obsolete. Nevertheless, the finest cuisine still depends on high
quality stock. So stock making still remains an essential skill. Stocks are
never served by themselves but are components of other dishes.
A stock
maybe defined as a colorful, flavorful, nutritious liquid obtained by careful
simmering of bones of meat, poultry, game, fish and their
meats,vegetables,acids,seasonings and flavouring for a pre-determined period of
time.
THE ELEMENTS OF A STOCK
WATER:
100%
BONES/MEAT
(3:2): 50%
MIREPOIX
(2:1:1): 10%
ACID: 5%
FLAVOURINGS/SEASONINGS: 1%
BONES:
Bones are the major ingredients in the making of stock. Most of the flavor and the body of stock are obtained from the bones of beef, veal, chicken and other poultry and fish. Occasionally, lamb, goat, pork and game bones are used for specific purposes. The kind of bones used would of course indicate the type of stock.
Chicken stock is made from chicken bones
Veal stock is made from veal bones
Fish Stock is made from fish bones and
Beef stock is made from beef bones
White
stock is made from beef, veal, chicken etc.
Brown
stock is made from beef or veal bones that have been browned in the
oven.
Fish
stock is made from fish bones and trimmings left over after
filleting. Bones from lean white fish give the best stock.fat fish are not
normally used. The term “FUMET” (ESSENCE)
is used for a flavorful fish stock, especially one made with white wine.
There are two important factors to keep in mind here:
1. Meat and bones contain connective tissues called collagen. On heating, these break down and form gelatin and it is this gelatin that gives `body’ to the stock. Body is an important feature in stock making and is a quality indicator. A well made stock will thicken and even solidify when chilled.
2. Cartilage is the best source of gelatin in bones. Younger animals have more cartilage in their skeletons. As they get older, these harden into solid bone which is harder to dissolve into the stock. Knuckle bones, on the joints of major bones, have a lot of cartilage and are valued in stock making. Neck bones and shank bones are also used a great deal.
Large bones are cut into smaller pieces, about 3” long. This exposes more surface area and aids maximum extraction. These smaller pieces of bones are easier to handle and fit easily into the stockpot.
1. Meat and bones contain connective tissues called collagen. On heating, these break down and form gelatin and it is this gelatin that gives `body’ to the stock. Body is an important feature in stock making and is a quality indicator. A well made stock will thicken and even solidify when chilled.
2. Cartilage is the best source of gelatin in bones. Younger animals have more cartilage in their skeletons. As they get older, these harden into solid bone which is harder to dissolve into the stock. Knuckle bones, on the joints of major bones, have a lot of cartilage and are valued in stock making. Neck bones and shank bones are also used a great deal.
Large bones are cut into smaller pieces, about 3” long. This exposes more surface area and aids maximum extraction. These smaller pieces of bones are easier to handle and fit easily into the stockpot.
MEAT:
Because of its cost, meat is rarely used nowadays in stock making. However, in the classical methods, large pieces of tougher cuts of meat were used to add flavor, taste, and nutritive value and to give body to the stock. Of course, suitable meats would be used. Beef for beef stock, chicken for chicken stock etc.
MIREPOIX:
Aromatic vegetables are the second most important ingredients used to make stock. These add to the flavor and will include onion, carrot, and celery When these vegetables and roughly cut and mixed together, they are referred to as a Mirepoix. (Pronounced: Meer pwah). A Mirepoix is used in all areas of cooking as a flavoring and not just in stock making.
Aromatic vegetables are the second most important ingredients used to make stock. These add to the flavor and will include onion, carrot, and celery When these vegetables and roughly cut and mixed together, they are referred to as a Mirepoix. (Pronounced: Meer pwah). A Mirepoix is used in all areas of cooking as a flavoring and not just in stock making.
White Mirepoix is made without carrots, is used to keep the
stock colourless as possible. Mushroom trimmings and leeks maybe added to the
white Mirepoix.
Size of
the Mirepoix depends upon how long the Mirepoix will cook.eg: For a beef stock
cut the vegetables into large pieces since it will be simmered for a long time
as compared to Fish Stock.
MATIGNON: Also
called as “EDIBLE MIREPOIX”, it
typically consist of onions, carrots, celery and Ham/Bacon (Smoked
products) mushrooms and assorted herbs and spices maybe added as desired. Used
to garnish a dish as well as to flavour it(part of the dish ).
ACID:
Acid products help to dissolve the connective tissue present in meat and bones. Help to extract flavour from the bones. Tomato products (paste and puree or juice) are used in brown stocks but would discolor white stock. Lemon juice or white vinegar is a commonly used acid product. Wine is occasionally used especially for fish stocks. However, its flavor contribution is more important than its acidity.
Acid products help to dissolve the connective tissue present in meat and bones. Help to extract flavour from the bones. Tomato products (paste and puree or juice) are used in brown stocks but would discolor white stock. Lemon juice or white vinegar is a commonly used acid product. Wine is occasionally used especially for fish stocks. However, its flavor contribution is more important than its acidity.
SCRAPS & LEFTOVERS:
These are constantly being added into the stockpot over a period of time. This may or may not be a good idea. Scraps and leftovers may be added if they are clean and appropriate to the stock being made. Remember that the stockpot is not a garbage disposal unit and the final product is only as good as the ingredients that are used.
These are constantly being added into the stockpot over a period of time. This may or may not be a good idea. Scraps and leftovers may be added if they are clean and appropriate to the stock being made. Remember that the stockpot is not a garbage disposal unit and the final product is only as good as the ingredients that are used.
SEASONING
AND FLAVOURINGS:
Salt is usually not added when making stocks. Stocks are never
used as it is , but reduced ,concentrated and combined with other ingredients.
If salt were added it might become too concentrated.
Herbs and spices should be used only lightly, they should
never dominate a stock or have a pronounced flavour.
1.
BOUQUET GARNI
2.
SACHET D’EPICES
3.
OIGNON BRULEE(BURNT ONION)
4.
OIGNON PIQUE (STUDDED ONION)
These combinations of aromatic vegetables, herbs and spices are meant to
enhance and support the flavours of the dish.
Bouquets and sachets are typically tied
together for easy removal during cooking after the desired amount of flavour
has been extracted, even before all of the ingredients in a dish are finished
cooking.
BOUQUET GARNI is made
up of fresh herbs and vegetables, tied to a bundle. If a leek is used to wrap
the ingredients it must be washed thoroughly to get rid of the dirt.
A Standard Bouquet Garni includes:
1 sprig
of thyme
3-4
parsley stems
1 bay
leaf
2-3 leek
leaves and /or 1 celery stalk cut crosswise in half.
SACHET D’EPICES (SA-SHAY DAY PEACE) is a
sachet consisting of ingredients such as peppercorns, other spices and herbs.
The seasonings are often tied up in a cheesecloth/muslin cloth.
A Standard Sachet d’epices includes
1 sprig
of thyme or 1tsp dried thyme
3-4
parsley stems
1 bay
leaf
1tsp
cracked peppercorn
1 garlic clove
(optional)
OIGNON BRULEE (BURNT ONION) is made
by peeling or unpeeling and cutting an onion in half and charring the cut edges
(it is used in some stocks and consommés) to give a golden brown colour and
flavour.
OIGNON PIQUE (STUDDED ONION) is
prepared by studding an onion with few whole cloves and a bayleaf; it is used
to flavour Béchamel sauce and few other soups.
PROCEDURES:
Making stock may seem to be a simple procedure. However, there are many steps involved. You must understand not only what to do, but also why you are doing it.
Blanching of the Bones:
Proteins coagulate when heated. Many proteins dissolve in cold water, but solidify into small particles or into froth and scum when heated. It is these particles that make a stock cloudy. Much of the technique of stock making involves avoiding cloudiness to produce a clear stock. The purpose of blanching the bones is to rid them of the impurities, which cause cloudiness. The bones of young animals are highest in blood and other impurities that cloud and discolor stocks. Chefs tend to disagree on the importance of blanching. Some feel that the process causes flavor loss. Others feel it is necessary to produce a clear stock. Fish bones are not blanched because of their short cooking time. Blanching involves the following steps:
1. Cut bones into small pieces and rinse in cold water. This washes off the blood and some of the other impurities. This step is especially important if the bones are not absolutely fresh.
2. Place the bones in a stockpot and cover with cold water. Remember, impurities dissolve easily in cold water.
3. Bring the water to a boil. As the water heats, impurities solidify (coagulate) and rise to the surface as scum.
4. Drain the bones and rinse them well. The bones are now ready for the stockpot.
5. To make brown stock, one more step is involved: Browning of the bones in the oven. This will impart the required color to the stock.
Procedure for preparing stock:
1. Add the blanched bones to cold water.
2. Bring the water to a boil, and then reduce to a simmer.
3. Skim the scum that rises to the surface, carefully.
4. Add the Mirepoix and the sachet. (Add tomato products if used)
5. Do not let the stock boil rapidly. Keep it at a low simmer. Boiling makes the stock cloudy.
6. Skim the surface as often as required.
7. Keep the water level above the bones. Cooking bones exposed to air will turn them dark and discolor the stock.
8. Simmer for the recommended time:
Beef stock: 8 to 10 hours
veal stock: 6 to 8 hours
Making stock may seem to be a simple procedure. However, there are many steps involved. You must understand not only what to do, but also why you are doing it.
Blanching of the Bones:
Proteins coagulate when heated. Many proteins dissolve in cold water, but solidify into small particles or into froth and scum when heated. It is these particles that make a stock cloudy. Much of the technique of stock making involves avoiding cloudiness to produce a clear stock. The purpose of blanching the bones is to rid them of the impurities, which cause cloudiness. The bones of young animals are highest in blood and other impurities that cloud and discolor stocks. Chefs tend to disagree on the importance of blanching. Some feel that the process causes flavor loss. Others feel it is necessary to produce a clear stock. Fish bones are not blanched because of their short cooking time. Blanching involves the following steps:
1. Cut bones into small pieces and rinse in cold water. This washes off the blood and some of the other impurities. This step is especially important if the bones are not absolutely fresh.
2. Place the bones in a stockpot and cover with cold water. Remember, impurities dissolve easily in cold water.
3. Bring the water to a boil. As the water heats, impurities solidify (coagulate) and rise to the surface as scum.
4. Drain the bones and rinse them well. The bones are now ready for the stockpot.
5. To make brown stock, one more step is involved: Browning of the bones in the oven. This will impart the required color to the stock.
Procedure for preparing stock:
1. Add the blanched bones to cold water.
2. Bring the water to a boil, and then reduce to a simmer.
3. Skim the scum that rises to the surface, carefully.
4. Add the Mirepoix and the sachet. (Add tomato products if used)
5. Do not let the stock boil rapidly. Keep it at a low simmer. Boiling makes the stock cloudy.
6. Skim the surface as often as required.
7. Keep the water level above the bones. Cooking bones exposed to air will turn them dark and discolor the stock.
8. Simmer for the recommended time:
Beef stock: 8 to 10 hours
veal stock: 6 to 8 hours
Poultry
stock: 4 to 6 hours
Fish
Stock: 30 mins to 1 hr
9 Skim the surface and strain the stock through a clean muslin/Tammy cloth.
10. Cool the stock as quickly as possible. Cooling the stock quickly and properly is important. Improperly cooled stock can spoil easily because it is a good breeding ground for bacteria. Do not refrigerate hot stock. It will damage the refrigerator and cause other foods to spoil as well.
9 Skim the surface and strain the stock through a clean muslin/Tammy cloth.
10. Cool the stock as quickly as possible. Cooling the stock quickly and properly is important. Improperly cooled stock can spoil easily because it is a good breeding ground for bacteria. Do not refrigerate hot stock. It will damage the refrigerator and cause other foods to spoil as well.
Note: For
Brown Stock, the Mirepoix may be browned with the bones.
When the bones are half browned, add the Mirepoix. However, some chefs prefer to add the Mirepoix directly to the stock.
FISH STOCK:
Fish stock is prepared from fish bones obtained after cleaning, cutting, trimming and filleting fish. These are thoroughly washes and then allowed to sweat in a little oil or butter in a covered pan over medium heat. Water is then poured into the pan and brought to a boil. The scum formed is skimmed off regularly and the Mirepoix added before allowing the stock to simmer for 20 to 25 minutes. Because of the short cooking time involved, fish stock is often referred to as Court Bouillon (court meaning short in French).
When the bones are half browned, add the Mirepoix. However, some chefs prefer to add the Mirepoix directly to the stock.
FISH STOCK:
Fish stock is prepared from fish bones obtained after cleaning, cutting, trimming and filleting fish. These are thoroughly washes and then allowed to sweat in a little oil or butter in a covered pan over medium heat. Water is then poured into the pan and brought to a boil. The scum formed is skimmed off regularly and the Mirepoix added before allowing the stock to simmer for 20 to 25 minutes. Because of the short cooking time involved, fish stock is often referred to as Court Bouillon (court meaning short in French).
REMOUILLAGE:
Translated
from the French as “REWETTING”, remouillage is made by reserving the simmering
bones and Mirepoix from a stock and simmering them the second time. This
secondary stock can be used as the liquid for the stocks, broths as a cooking
medium or reduced to a glace.
REDUCTION & GLAZES
Stocks can be concentrated by boiling or simmering them to reduce them and evaporate part of the water. This is called reduction or reducing.
Glazes (Glace -glahss) in French
A glaze is a stock that is reduced till it coats the back of a spoon. It is so concentrated that is solid and rubbery when refrigerated. Glazes are used as flavorings in sauce making and in some meat, fish, poultry and even vegetable preparations. Only small amounts are needed, as they are very concentrated. There are three types of glazes:
1. Meat glaze or glace de viande (glahss duh vee awnd) made from brown stock.
2. Chicken glaze or glace de volaille (glahss duh voh lye) made from chicken stock.
3. Fish glaze or glace de poisson (pwah sohn) made from fish stock (sometimes called Fumet).
Stocks can be concentrated by boiling or simmering them to reduce them and evaporate part of the water. This is called reduction or reducing.
Glazes (Glace -glahss) in French
A glaze is a stock that is reduced till it coats the back of a spoon. It is so concentrated that is solid and rubbery when refrigerated. Glazes are used as flavorings in sauce making and in some meat, fish, poultry and even vegetable preparations. Only small amounts are needed, as they are very concentrated. There are three types of glazes:
1. Meat glaze or glace de viande (glahss duh vee awnd) made from brown stock.
2. Chicken glaze or glace de volaille (glahss duh voh lye) made from chicken stock.
3. Fish glaze or glace de poisson (pwah sohn) made from fish stock (sometimes called Fumet).
COMMERCIAL BASES
The cost,
both in terms of money, material and time of making stocks in the kitchen has
lead to the widespread use of concentrated convenience products known as bases
.These may be powders or pastes which are diluted with water to make a flavored
liquid similar to stocks.
Bases
vary greatly in quality. The best ones are composed mainly of meat extracts.
These are perishable products and need to be refrigerated. However, a lot of
bases are primarily salt (an expensive way of buying salt). Read the list of
ingredients on the box or packet and avoid those, which list salt first!
USING BASES:
- Bases can be improved by simmering them with a little Mirepoix, meat trimmings and bones. This improves the taste and gives a `fresher’ and more natural flavor to the stock.
- Bases can be added to stocks to supplement their flavor and taste and reduce the cooking time.
- Bases are added to stocks to supplement them when only a little is on hand.
There is no substitute for a well-made stock. But it is also true that a good base may be better than a poorly made stock!!
- Bases can be improved by simmering them with a little Mirepoix, meat trimmings and bones. This improves the taste and gives a `fresher’ and more natural flavor to the stock.
- Bases can be added to stocks to supplement their flavor and taste and reduce the cooking time.
- Bases are added to stocks to supplement them when only a little is on hand.
There is no substitute for a well-made stock. But it is also true that a good base may be better than a poorly made stock!!
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Please refer recipes for Stocks from your
Food Production journal.
REFERENCE
BOOKS: Professional Chef-(Culinary Institute of America)
Professional cooking (Wayne Gisslen)
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